Monday, July 4, 2011

San Evaristo

Since I have a bad memory and I have no internet access and can't read my last postings, I hope I am not repeating myself. I think the last time I posted we were at Isla San Francisco. We stayed there for several days, and on the last day moved over to another side of the island. While we were at the original side, Walt caught a dorado just the perfect size to feed all three of us well. I dredged the fresh filets in seasoned cornmeal and then sauteed it. It was wonderful - the dream baja meal, fresh caught dorado.

The other side of the island had a beach that was covered with really old shells and agates and wild-looking rocks and minerals of all sorts. We hiked to a saltwater pond in the middle of the island that had thousands of fiddler crabs living in it. They were all along the shoreline but hustled back into the water when we approached. They are interesting crabs because the males have one huge claw that is used only to wave around to attract mates and another small claw that is used for eating. The females have two small claws. We watched them skitter around for a long time.

We also had a head (bathroom) emergency - clogged hose pipes. Yuck. They had to be scraped out. Seems like when you have salt water running through your system, stuff (and you know just what stuff I am talking about) just sort of crystalizes in your hose pipes. So now the head is running better than ever. One thing everyone wants is a reliable head, at least in my opinion. We also used our watermaker twice. The first time there were some glitches, no big deal, just getting used to operating it. We used it again today, and got 110 gallons in about three and a half hours. It is amazing to have a glass of drinking water that is way better than San Diego tap water, and to know that minutes ago it was salt water. It also frees us to use fresh water pretty liberally, especially for showering off salt.

For the most part, we had the anchorages at Isla San Francisco to ourselves. There were a few boats that pulled in in the later afternoon, spent the night, and left by the time we got up. Otherwise we were alone and it was wonderful. We jumped off the boat right into the kind of crystal clear water the guidebooks show. We also went to a little tiny island via dinghy called either Isla Coyote or Isla Pardito, depending on who you are talking to. There are about four families there, catching and processing fish. The kids go to school via panga to the place we stopped at next.

Two days ago we left Isla San Francisco and sailed north to the little fishing village called San Evaristo. It is at the foot of these huge mountains on a nice crescent bay. There are about 20 families living there, and all of them are related. They are also cousins to the people on Isla Coyote and to the people in the even smaller village about eight miles north. They are very difficult to get to by road, and get no tourists other than those of us who come by boat. There is a little store that had a good selection of fresh produce, and a little bar that operated out of someone's home. we had a great time there, drinking cerveza with Augustin, who knew almost everything about the area. He didn't speak English, but between Walt and I we were able to visit all afternoon long, translating for Mike. I had a wonderful time and really liked meeting all the people.

Today Walt went to the village while MIke and I stayed on the boat and made water and did laundry and stuff like that. Some panga fishermen stopped by the boat and sold us some lobsters - I am looking forward to a great dinner! Walt ended up playing parcheesi all day long with the townspeople and now knows everyone. It is a great place to be and in some ways reminds me of Bahia Tortuga where we stopped after we left Ensenada in January. We plan to leave here in the next day or two and work our way to the next unbelievable place. I can hardly wait until I have internet access again so I can post pictures. I am completely unable to find adequate words to describe this. Viva Mexico!

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1 comment:

  1. I sure wish I were there with you! It sounds lovely! Were you sad that Walt went to town while you stayed home like Cinderella? Also, let me know how you're doing. I read in the NYT that there were some bad seas--one commercial boat sank. Word as to how you're doing would be great! My love to you all, and give Walt an extra hug for me.

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