Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Excitement in the Anchorage

That is probably overstating it.  Last night we were resting comfortably in the cabin, watching a movie, when we heard some knocking on the side of the boat.  After ascertaining it was not a criminal trying to get aboard, we recognized Jean-Pascal, the crewman on board one of our neighbors.  He showed us that this big powerboat, Princess Nicole, was about to run right into us.  He got aboard that boat (I got on the radio but the owner or captain or other responsible party could not be located) and managed to slow it down (it was dragging its anchor) by letting out some more of its anchor chain.  In the mean time, we decided we needed to pull up our anchor and move, just in case Her Highness Princess Nicole decided to keep moving around.

So I took the helm, but Mike was having problems with the anchor - actually with the clutch of the anchor windlass - and there was also a lot of wind.   The wind blows the boat around in a circle, and it is hard to keep a boat pointed the right direction when it is supposed to  be standing still.  You need movement to maintain steerage.  Plus of course we have no depth sounder, which means we don't know how deep it is. (Although this is not quite such a big deal in an anchorage like this - we can tell which boats have drafts similar to ours.)  Mike needed to have the spreader lights on to work on the clutch, which was a problem for me at the helm as I could not see past the light around the boat, like looking past a campfire.  I just had to hope there was no one in front of me, as I would not see them until I was right on them.  And of course to make matters worse, the anchor was sort of hanging down, but not set.  But we managed.  Mike fixed the problem, made some improvements so the situation would not happen like that again, and we finished watching the movie and went to bed.  Thank goodness for Mike's skills - he is good at keeping this vessel afloat.

Then this morning, I was sitting here at the computer when we were hit by a huge wave (at least it seemed that way).  Everything went flying, and I am careful to keep things well secured even at anchor because I know what can happen.  A jar of instant coffee flew off the counter and opened and instant coffee went everywhere.  Along with a big glass of water, so imagine the mess.  Even though I have vacuumed and washed the floor it still smells like Starbuck's in here!  I suppose that could certainly be worse.  Today we plan to ride around in the dinghy, see the local sights along the waterway, and then go to the grocery store.

We are more and more certain we are winning the war of attrition against these roaches.  And the geckos are still alive, at least two of them. 

So that will do it for today.  Tonight there is a ceviche party at a local restaurant, we may go or we may not.   We'll see what our mood is when the time comes. 

"Next to music beer was best." (Carson McCullers)    

 

Sunday, April 28, 2013

Sailors take your mark, get set . . .

We finally have all the wheels in place and the ball is rolling and every other relevant cliche I can think of for our repair and maintenance of Magda Jean.  We have all the broken parts sent off for repair or replacement, other parts and various and sundry items are on order and on their way to our mail forwarding service in Florida, and we have an address here to receive our packages and mail.  We also have quotes for our haul out to paint the bottom, and have discovered while it is no bargain, it is not prohibitive either.  We are really happy.  The sooner we get this done, the sooner we can hang out in the islands.  I like it here, right off Panama City, but it is after all a big commercial area so I can't just jump off the boat and swim.  Actually, if anyone in this anchorage could do it, we could.  We are anchored about as far out as one can go, so there is quite a bit of flushing.  I did go in a couple days ago but not by design - I was getting out of the dinghy, and it was pretty rough.  As I was stepping on to the boat, a big swell came along at the exact wrong moment and over I went.  I might add the water is nice and cool and it is hot and humid here.  Mike just pulled me into the dinghy.  I swear no alcohol was involved.

Otherwise, there isn't a whole lot of news.  We watched yesterday as two boats that were rafted up together were boarded and apparently searched by the police.  It was all very interesting.  One of the boats is a real wreck, and has been tied up to another, more normal looking boat since we got there.  After the cops left, the wreck of a boat left the anchorage and we have not seen it since.  The more normal boat is still there.

And the other big news - drum roll and all that - is that I got a tattoo.  A nice gecko on my upper thigh.  I am quite pleased with it.  (I better be, since a) it is not going to come off and b) it hurt when I got it.)  I know some of you don't approve of this, and all I have to say is since I am 57 years old I can do what I want.  Anyway, here it is!
 
 
While I hadn't really planned on having one this big, I decided "in for a penny, in for a pound." 
 
So that is what happens when you have a lot of time on you hands and meet up with a young Nova Scotian named Pam who happens to be a tattoo artist.  We had to rent a hotel rooms as the boats were too bouncy.  She is with a lot of other kids on a boat heading to Polynesia.  There are a lot of kids here, looking to join up with boats headed to various places.  It takes some courage to take off like that, I think.  I admire them.
 
Oh - I forgot to mention - we designed and built our own roach traps and they are working beautifully.  We discovered (by happy accident) the the roaches seemed to like the glue on the back of out all purpose duct-type tape.  So we started setting up tape with the sticky parts up and each morning, there are lots of roaches stuck to it.  Between that, the intense cleaning, and of course the geckos (we have audio confirmation there are at least two of them alive and going strong) we appear to have more than just the upper hand, the roaches appear to be on the run.
 
Anyway, I have to get going and make breakfast.  If I wait any longer, we'll be having lunch. 
 
"Humanity has advanced, when it has advanced, not because it has been sober, responsible, and cautious, but because it has been playful, rebellious, and immature." (Tom Robbins)
 
 
 
  

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

More Canal Pictures

We got some new pictures downloaded, and here are some examples of what we saw as we went through the Panama Canal.  I am still sort of amazed at myself that I have gone through one of the most wondrous piece of engineering that man has done so far.

Here is what it looks like when you first enter the lock and the door closes.




Here is what it looks like when the water has lowered some.

And here is what it looks like when it has gone deeper.
 
These two ships were with us in the line for the locks.  They look a lot bigger from the deck of the boat we were on.


 

 

 
This one was right behind us and looked even bigger, especially when he got really close.

 
 


And of course, we got to see some really gorgeous stuff as we motored along in Lake Gatun.  Here is the shoreline - and we heard howler monkeys all evening long.
 


And here was a beautiful little yellow bird, taking advantage of waterfront real estate.
 
 
Right now we are sitting aboard Magda Jean, just being lazy.   We are awaiting the final instructions for shipping out our broken stuff, and getting new stuff sent in.  We have figured out the haul out for new bottom paint will not be any kind of a south of the border bargain, but not prohibitive or completely out of line.  At least we can tell ourselves that because the bottom desperately needs new paint and we have to get it done.
 
A lot of the cruisers here have left, and we may have to move to a different anchorage as the weather starts to change.  I like this anchorage better, but it will, according to all the long time Panama people, become untenable as the waves shift to the southwest.  Oh well - I hope we can time it with our haul out, which we want to time to coincide with the arrival of either repaired or new electronics, etc etc and so on and so on.  So far we have not had any rain really - just enough sprinkling to require the hatches be closed (with the resultant heating up of the cabin) and the decks to get all muddy looking. I know that soon enough things will change - the old timers and handing out advice about avoiding lightning strikes.  It really isn't possible - if it is going to hit you it is going to hit you - but taking precautions makes me feel a touch more in control.  
 
Tonight is ceviche night - we all meet at this ceviche restaurant and eat ceviche and drink beer.  Sounds good to me.
 
"Everyone suffers at least one bad betrayal in their lifetime. It’s what unites us. The trick is not to let it destroy your trust in others when that happens. Don’t let them take that from you." (Sherrilyn Kenyon)  
 
 

Saturday, April 20, 2013

Through the Canal!!!!!

It was a really amazing experience.  The canal is so big, and so many ships are going through it 24/7 - it is hard to absorb.  Here is how it went, difficulties and all.  We were to be "line handlers."  When you pass through the canal, you need to have at least four people on the boat to act as line handlers, as well as one person who is captain.  Then you have an advisor, who is a canal employee, with you on the boat the entire time, telling you how to do everything. 

First, in order to pass through the canal, you have to make arrangements with the canal authorities, pay money, and get a time assigned.  Since it was not our boat, we did not have to worry about all that.  All we had to do was show up on our friends' boat.  So all is well - or so we think.  After loading up me, Mike, and Pam (the third line handler), we waited only to be told that we had been cancelled, and would have to leave the following day instead.  No big deal for us, but it was disappointing for the owners of the boat.  But the next day we actually got to leave.

The canal crossing is usually a two day process.  The first day, we went through like we had done it every day of our lives.  We entered the first lock, threw our lines to the tug we were tied up to, and then sat as the water rose in the lock.  It is strange  because you can't feel it - you just look up and see the guys on the walls getting further and further above you.  We did this twice, and then we found ourselves in Lake Gatun, which very well maybe the biggest man made lake in the world.  We tied up to this big red buoy, and spent the night, but not after having an awesome fresh water swim.  Our friends, D'Arcy and Isabelle, were the most incredible hosts, feeding us well, and providing a better bed than we have on board!  (Their boat is fancier and I admit to a moment of envy.) 

The second day did not go as smoothly, to say the least.  We had a different advisor, and we thought the first one was a lot better.  We were scheduled to leave at 8 am, but after waiting for the advisor until well past that time, discovered they had changed our time until 2 pm.  So we spent the time swimming in the lake.  By the way, you are not supposed to swim in the lake.  I asked our advisor about that, and he said the reason for the rule was only to make the canal authority's collective life easier by avoiding any possible problems with people drowning.  So we swam anyway as there was no one to stop us.  The water was a perfect temperature - not too warm and not too cold. 

Anyway, when we entered the first lock, the guys on the tug we were supposed to tie up to did not grab the lines as they should, and the boat swung around like crazy.  It took quite awhile to get it back on track, and in the process, a small light (like a turn indicator on a car) hit the side of the tug and got broken.  Once we finally got straightened out, we went down this time (you go up from the Pacific to Lake Gatun and then up from Lake Gatun to the Caribbean) and entered the second lock.  This time it was worse, except nothing got broken.  The wind came up, and this time the boat got turned around backwards and could not be straightened out.  One of the things about a sailboat is the difficulty in steering if you are not going very fast.  There are times when you simply cannot get the rudder to respond.  I am not explaining it well, but it happens.  I have had trouble when we are going very slowly with our boat getting completely turned around.  It is not that big a problem in open seas - you can turn on the engine and just speed up and get yourself back on track.  But there is limited room in the lock to turn around, and the engine was already on, and there is no way to build up speed.  So we ended up tying up to the tug backwards.  When the doors to the locks opened, D'Arcy had to back is boat out.  Backing a sailboat is also difficult - it tends to want to veer to one side or another, and does not back like a car or a powerboat.  But D'Arcy did a fabulous job.  We wonder if we were the first to back out! 

After all of that, we motored on to the marina, got the boat docked, and had a wonderful time eating, drinking, decompressing, and debriefing.  Mike, Pam, and I then took the bus back to Panama City from Colon.  All in all it was a wonderful trip and I am so glad I got a chance to do it. 

Here are some pictures of the Grand Crossing:

As the lock opens
 
 The tug we tied up to

 
Isabelle, the advisor, the tug, and a huge boat behind us
 
Mike tossing a line to the tug

The Tugboat Crew

Getting ready to tie up in Lake Gatun
 
 The Crew of Ideal 1
D'Arcy, Mike, Isabelle, Pam, Kate
 
There are more pictures that have not yet been downloaded, and also some video I shot.  I will try to get some video posted. 

So anyway, we are now back in Panama City, happily aboard Magda Jean, and looking to get all of our problems solved so we can move on.  Logistics are always a bit of a problem, but it is easier here than in El Salvador.  Mike and I were a little discouraged after trying all day yesterday to deal with the watermaker that decided to stay broken after all.  We contacted the maker via email, and he walked us through some trouble shooting, and the upshot is he is sending us a valve rebuild kit.  We are hoping against hope that will do the trick.  It is disappointing to have it break down so soon - there are only about 250 hours on the motor - but the company (Cruise RO Water) has excellent customer service and I am optimistic that we will in the end have a functioning watermaker.  The depth sounder and AIS will have to be returned to Simrad and hopefully they will be fixed.  (Interestingly, we discovered that the Simrad repair facility is in San Diego.   Might be a good time for a trip if we can find some way to secure the boat while we are gone.  That is just my idea and has not been discussed.)  If not, and we have to replace them, it will cost a small fortune and I really really really hope that does not happen.  As much as I like it here,  I want to move on to the islands and then head to Ecuador.  There is talk of continuing down to Peru, and I would like to go to Chile.  I have a lot of research to do first!

So that is all for now.  Adios for now from Panama City!

"It takes a great deal of bravery to stand up to our enemies, but just as much to stand up to our friends." (J.K. Rowling)

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Not in Kansas Anymore!

OK, what I really mean is I am not in El Salvador anymore.  Not even San Salvador.  Panama City is a real city.  Big skyscrapers, everything you can think of (except of course specialized marine products) available.  No need to spend $100 to spend an entire day driving just to grocery shop.  I was in the biggest mall I have ever been in the other day!   We were able to replace our broken camera (with an upgrade, no less!), found the brand of outdoor clothing we like, found new shoes (Keens) for Mike, found the new feather bed we need to replace the old one that started sending feathers loose throughout the boat, you name it.  Amazing!!!!!

And another great thing about this place - as I sit here anchored in La Playita, just off Panama City, a mere 20-30 miles away are the Las Perlas Islands, which are beautiful, with clear water and white sands.  A mere day sail away, depending on winds.  We can go there an anchor until we run out of beer and vegetables, then go back, reprovision, and go again.

Of course we can't go there until we get the depth sounder fixed, or at least find a functional alternative.  It would be foolish to try and anchor without being able to determine your depth.  Here, there are plenty of boats, so you know exactly where to go, and there are other people within yards of your boat who can tell you what is underneath your hull.  SO no islands until we get this fixed.  I find it highly suspicious that BOTH the depth sounder and the AIS (our ship tracking gizmo) would go out at the same time, but Mike insists there are no connections between them that would cause them, and only them, to go our together.  I believe that these things are some sort of somewhat integrated system, nor do I believe in mechanical coincidences.  My unprofessional, but firm opinion is that this was all caused by a direct lightning strike to a boat very close to us.  We know it happened to them (we were on an overnight to San Salvador) and we were  only about 25 yards away from them.  When we got back,  the display on our inverter (the device that shows what power is coming and and what is going out) was acting haywire, flashing random letters and numbers, until Mike reset it and then it was fine.  No reason for it to do that.  But back to the depth sounder and AIS - I do not know if Mike is going to try to repair them or if he is just going to replace them.

There are a lot of other boats here, from all over the world.  It is not just US and Canada anymore, but people from all over.  There are a lot of European  boats here that have come through the canal, and other boats waiting to go through.  I thought I was pretty used to dealing with big ships since I learned to sail with the Navy ships in San Diego, but for sheer numbers, Panama has got San Diego beat.  There are always huge ships coming and going from the canal, and many boats anchored awaiting their turns.  When I first got out of college, I had a job working for a container leasing company in San Francisco.  That was a long time ago, and seeing the names of these companies - NedLloyd, Hapag Lloyd, Maersk, Sealand - it brought me back. 

We are not taking Magda Jean through the canal, but we are going through with some friends of ours on their boat as line handlers.  I am really excited about doing it - and it will be more fun on someone else's boat because it is less stressful.  (My big fear is always damage and the ensuing costs, not drowning.)  It should be a lot of fun and really interesting. 

Anyway, I need to get going and make brunch for us (too late to be called breakfast).  I told Mike I am in no hurry to leave here.  

"Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time." (Marthe Troly-Curtin)       

Monday, April 1, 2013

No More Punta Mala

Our weather window arrived. We left Ensenada Naranja yesterday (Easter Sunday) and sailed through the night, rounding the point early this afternoon. After all the drama we had before, having to turn back and lose an entire days worth of progress, we just sailed nicely past the bugaboo. It was really nice to get that behind us. At this point, we are about 90 miles from Panama City, where we plan to stop and anchor while figuring out our next move.

There are several things we have to take care of. First and foremost, we need to take care of our taxes. For that we need internet access. I wish we could do them earlier, but there is one document that never arrives until mid March or so, and there is nothing to be done about that. We have to get our documents scanned from our mail drop, print them out (we have a printer) and then do the figuring. This year it should only take an hour or so - it is exactly the same as last year but with slightly different figures. So we just plug in new numbers and off we go. But as it is already April 1, we are pushing it a bit.

The next thing we have to do is get some of our equipment fixed - most importantly, our depth sounder, without which anchoring is a dicey business. Magda Jean desperately needs bottom paint, and we also need to get a new water pump. I am almost embarrassed to write this - some of you must be thinking this boat is an absolute piece of crap, with things breaking every two minutes. But that is just the way things are. I do not know any cruisers, either with old or brand new boats, that do not have the same problems. It is the harsh marine environment. Just when you thin you have everything under control, the thing you fixed two years ago breaks. And you start all over again. I will admit, it can get a person down if you let it.

The sailing on this trip has been pretty good, all in all. All morning, there was a shearwater that flew all around the boat, looking it over. He landed (I was napping and missed this) and spent quite some time climbing all over the boat, checking it out. THen he returned to his mate, who was in the water nearby. This happened a couple of times. Mike suspects he was looking for a nesting site. We have also seen huge rays jumping out of the water in the mornings and evenings, jumping high into the air and twisting in summersaults. I already told the story of the lost pole.

Right now the wind has dropped, and the small amount that is left can't make its mind up as to what direction it wants to blow. So we furl in the big job (to keep it from banging around) and wait for the decision. It seems like there is a period like this almost every day - usually in the afternoon. It's funny - on Thursday we were forced b back due to crazy high seas and winds - now it is like drifting in a bathtub. Were it not for the jellyfish, we could stop the boat and have a swim call.

We are out of fresh produce. It only lasts so long, even in the fridge. Now we are reduced to canned veggies but I think we can deal with it. I made an excellent chicken dish last night, using chicken breasts, leftover rice, canned peppers, and canned tomatoes. It was surprisingly good. I baked bread, and again, it came out beautifully. I make small loaves, because it doesn't keep that well. No preservatives, after all. TOmorrow I may thaw some dough and try my hand at pita, since we have cans of hummos and baba ganoush. A nice little Greek feast, minus the feta.

That is really it for today - we are simply sailing along, slowly but surely, towards civilisation and cold beer. I can hardly wait.

"Oh who can tell, save he who hath tried,
And danced in triumph o'er the waters wide,
The exulting sense - the pulse's maddening play,
That thrills the wanderer of that trackless way?"
(Lord Byron)

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