Here we are, on our way to Salvador. We left Panama City on May 7, and since that time we are still here in Panama, slowly sailing with either no wind or lightning. Neither are optimal for our purposes. I used to love thunder and lightning, but now I am in horror of it. I have too many friends and acquaintances who have been struck and lost all of their electronics - usually to the tune of at least $30,000 to fix, not to mention the hassle of trying to find someone who can actually do the work and do it right.
The night before last, we had to use the engine to literally dodge around lighting cells. Mike was masterful, handling this boat like one of those NASCAR drivers, only slower. We pulled in here at 3 am with no moon, so we couldn't see anything and had to navigate in using our radar. Then, to add insult to injury, it started to rain. The problem with rain is that when you are using radar to navigate, rather than to see what is way up ahead of you, the rain shows up on the screen and causes the screen to be one big blob, instead of several little clearly defined blobs that are indicative of things to be avoided. But here we are, safe and sound, so we managed. I mean Mike managed - I sat there helping him look out. Too bad I no longer have the excellent night vision I had as a kid. Moonless nights with cloud cover are difficult. A fact of sailing life. So now we wait, for some kind of break in the weather.
At least we are in a gorgeous anchorage. Yesterday we heard the howler monkeys calling. In fact, they have just started up again. The beach butts right up against a dense jungle, and the air is thick with the smell of plumeria. There are wild orchids everywhere,growing on the big ceiba trees. We can see and experience all this from the boat. We also have a bucket of mangoes that we picked at our last anchorage, so we are living well. Our only disappointment is that the fishing has been terrible. I have caught basically nothing this year. Everyone, including the local panga fishermen, are talking about it. Thank goodness we have a freezer full of store bought food. If it were solely up to me this year, we would starve.
The Panamanian military came by and checked our paperwork, which of course is in perfect order. Even though it is always in perfect order (except once when I lucked out) I still break out in a sweat every time someone in a uniform asks to see my papers. Too many WWII moves, for sure. Even though none of these guys sound like Claude Rains. And they usually smile. And they are usually 18 years old. But still.
But other than that, things could not be better. I do not mind going slowly,I just feel bad because there is some family business I need internet to take care of and I don't have it now, and won't until Salvador. I can send and receive basic email with no attachments, via SSB radio (the way I am posting this and why I have no pictures to accompany it) but that is all. So it is frustrating because I do not want to be a hold up to the process. It is one of those "serenity to accept the things I cannot change" things, and the virtue "Patience" has never been my strong suit.
Anyway, this will be a short post. I am fine, Mike is fine, Magda Jean is fine. Although our pace is slow, we are learning to stop expending energy fussing over what may happen next, but to simply accept and experience as deeply as possible what happening in this moment. Not as easy as it sounds, but when it works it is amazing. The adventure continues.
"Please don't understand me too quickly." (Andre Gide)
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