So okay, we are not in Costa Rica. Nor are we on the way. We are back in Panama City. As usual, we didn't even come close to following our carefully laid plans. There were (as usual) a number of really really good reasons for changing plans. They are as follows:
1. I already described our immigration problems, with a horribly out of date zarpe (zahr pay) the document that tells the place you arrive where you last left. It is a requirement and they won't let you in without it. Ours was six months old, and said we were going to Ecuador. We were told horror stories about people being refused entry because of dated or otherwise deficient paperwork, and we had no desire to have problems like that. We heard that Costa Rica was one of the most difficult. We were told that the age of the zarpe could be a problem even in Ecuador. So we were in the position of having checked out of the country but never actually leaving. We decided the only thing to do was to return to Panama City, turn ourselves in (so to speak) and pay whatever penalty for being in the country for six months without doing anything about it. So yesterday we took care of that. It turned out to be no problem at all. We had a big story all planned (with much input from other cruisers) but there were very few questions. It turns out that our cruising permit (which allows the boat to be in the country) was still valid, so they just updated our info and charged us nothing. Then we headed off to immigration (to make it okay for us to be in the country) and that was even easier. We only had to pay $210, which is less than we paid originally. We didn't even get scolded, and when asked, I just said we had left for Ecuador but never made it due to boat problems. So now all is well and I feel like a complete nitwit for allowing this to happen. Never again!
2. Our alternator (the device that allows the engine to charge the batteries that give us light and water pressure and stuff like that) stopped working, and we need a new one. Of course Mike wants a bigger and better one, and he also wants the old one rebuilt so we have a spare. The engine is fine without it, and between the solar and the wind power, as well as the Honda generator (if all else fails) we can make all the power we need until the new one can be located. It is not a problem, but needs to be solved and Panama City is a great place to solve problems like this.
3. We have been like babies with our days and nights mixed up in the sense that we have been here in the bad season rather than the good season, which is just starting. Additionally, the good season for sailing to Ecuador will begin this spring. We love the islands here, and after dodging lightning all summer, it would be wonderful to enjoy them without the fear. After all, there have been at least five boats that I know of for sure that were hit this summer. Every time there was a huge crack of thunder that shook the boat in a horribly concussive manner, I felt like a cat that had just used up another life. We vowed never to spend another lightning season in this area, so if we stay here and enjoy the dry season, we will be on track for Ecuador in March.
4. The islands here are wonderful and we have barely begun to explore them. There is an area south towards Colombia with rivers to explore - so we do not want to leave yet.
There you have it. These are our plans as of today.
Things are pretty good here. We bought two new computers - these little Galaxy things that are really amazing. They were our Christmas presents to ourselves. There are a number of boats spending Christmas at one of our favorite anchorages, and we plan to join them. I was thinking about where I have had the last Christmases - one in Cabo San Lucas, one in Puerto Vallarta, and one in Guatemala. We are just starting to realize we have been at this for three years! While there have certainly been the proverbial ups and downs, I would not trade this life for anything. I do miss my family, especially my son, but there are plans in the works to visit in May and June, and in the future I want to plan for more visits home. So that will end things for today - it is time for the SSB radio net. Feliz Navidad!
"When everything goes to hell, the people who stand by you without flinching -- they are your family." (Jim Butcher)
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