I hope everyone is having a great Thanksgiving Day. I plan to spend mine fishing as soon as it cools down a bit - it is super hot right now, and the sun is just beating down. It is a beautiful day here as usual.
By the way, the engine problem did turn out to be the alternator. Mike took it out, and when we turned the engine on, the noise was completely gone. He then replaced it with a spare we bought in Mazatlan a couple of years ago. It turned out that it did not fit exactly - one used 3/16 inch bolts while another used 1/4 inch bolts. Really? Why is it that nothing ever seems to work with anything else? I have spent many hours so frustrated over the lack of a screw or bolt necessary for project completion that I have almost been in tears. I mean, think about it - we go into a store that has nothing but screws, bolts, and the like. There are rows and rows of little bins - all sizes, shapes, different kinds of metal, and on and on. But guess what? They will never have the kind we need. They will have everything else, but not that. For want of a nail a kingdom was lost, and all that, I know. But it never fails. Anyway, this time, however, Mike figured out how to make do and got the replacement alternator installed, although it took all day, and I felt bad for him, being folded up like a fan in that hot little engine room. So we tested it, and it seems to work generally, except it is not charging as much as it should be. I think it is a bad connection, and if Mike fools around with it for awhile, I am willing to bet he gets it working fine. As it is, it will not cause us to slink back to Panama City for repairs. I am proud of his mechanical abilities as always, and frankly a bit awe stricken. I consider myself to be pretty smart and accomplished, but I have to admit my particular talents are useless out here. Mike has never changed an alternator before, nor has he done a quarter of the things he has done on this boat. He could charge people to deal with their refrigeration systems if he wanted to, he has learned that much. The only thing he really doesn't do is hard core diesel engine repair, but I think that is not because he can't, but because he does not have all the necessary tools.
On this particular Thanksgiving Day, I am grateful for my friends and family, for the fact that I don't have to work for a living, and for having the opportunity to do this - to travel by sea, in my own boat, with nothing forcing my hand into action but my own desires and nature.
"He who sits still in a house all the time may be the greatest vagrant of all, but the saunterer, in the good sense, is no more vagrant than the meandering river, which is all the while sedulously seeking the shortest course to the sea." (Henry David Thoreau)
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Thursday, November 28, 2013
Happy Thanksgiving
I hope everyone is having a great Thanksgiving Day. I plan to spend mine fishing as soon as it cools down a bit - it is super hot right now, and the sun is just beating down. It is a beautiful day here as usual.
By the way, the engine problem did turn out to be the alternator. Mike took it out, and when we turned the engine on, the noise was completely gone. He then replaced it with a spare we bought in Mazatlan a couple of years ago. It turned out that it did not fit exactly - one used 3/16 inch bolts while another used 1/4 inch bolts. Really? Why is it that nothing ever seems to work with anything else? I have spent many hours so frustrated over the lack of a screw or bolt necessary for project completion that I have almost been in tears. I mean, think about it - we go into a store that has nothing but screws, bolts, and the like. There are rows and rows of little bins - all sizes, shapes, different kinds of metal, and on and on. But guess what? They will never have the kind we need. They will have everything else, but not that. For want of a nail a kingdom was lost, and all that, I know. But it never fails. Anyway, this time, however, Mike figured out how to make do and got the replacement alternator installed, although it took all day, and I felt bad for him, being folded up like a fan in that hot little engine room. So we tested it, and it seems to work generally, except it is not charging as much as it should be. I think it is a bad connection, and if Mike fools around with it for awhile, I am willing to bet he gets it working fine. As it is, it will not cause us to slink back to Panama City for repairs. I am proud of his mechanical abilities as always, and frankly a bit awe stricken. I consider myself to be pretty smart and accomplished, but I have to admit my particular talents are useless out here. Mike has never changed an alternator before, nor has he done a quarter of the things he has done on this boat. He could charge people to deal with their refrigeration systems if he wanted to, he has learned that much. The only thing he really doesn't do is hard core diesel engine repair, but I think that is not because he can't, but because he does not have all the necessary tools.
On this particular Thanksgiving Day, I am grateful for my friends and family, for the fact that I don't have to work for a living, and for having the opportunity to do this - to travel by sea, in my own boat, with nothing forcing my hand into action but my own desires and nature.
"He who sits still in a house all the time may be the greatest vagrant of all, but the saunterer, in the good sense, is no more vagrant than the meandering river, which is all the while sedulously seeking the shortest course to the sea." (Henry David Thoreau)
----------
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By the way, the engine problem did turn out to be the alternator. Mike took it out, and when we turned the engine on, the noise was completely gone. He then replaced it with a spare we bought in Mazatlan a couple of years ago. It turned out that it did not fit exactly - one used 3/16 inch bolts while another used 1/4 inch bolts. Really? Why is it that nothing ever seems to work with anything else? I have spent many hours so frustrated over the lack of a screw or bolt necessary for project completion that I have almost been in tears. I mean, think about it - we go into a store that has nothing but screws, bolts, and the like. There are rows and rows of little bins - all sizes, shapes, different kinds of metal, and on and on. But guess what? They will never have the kind we need. They will have everything else, but not that. For want of a nail a kingdom was lost, and all that, I know. But it never fails. Anyway, this time, however, Mike figured out how to make do and got the replacement alternator installed, although it took all day, and I felt bad for him, being folded up like a fan in that hot little engine room. So we tested it, and it seems to work generally, except it is not charging as much as it should be. I think it is a bad connection, and if Mike fools around with it for awhile, I am willing to bet he gets it working fine. As it is, it will not cause us to slink back to Panama City for repairs. I am proud of his mechanical abilities as always, and frankly a bit awe stricken. I consider myself to be pretty smart and accomplished, but I have to admit my particular talents are useless out here. Mike has never changed an alternator before, nor has he done a quarter of the things he has done on this boat. He could charge people to deal with their refrigeration systems if he wanted to, he has learned that much. The only thing he really doesn't do is hard core diesel engine repair, but I think that is not because he can't, but because he does not have all the necessary tools.
On this particular Thanksgiving Day, I am grateful for my friends and family, for the fact that I don't have to work for a living, and for having the opportunity to do this - to travel by sea, in my own boat, with nothing forcing my hand into action but my own desires and nature.
"He who sits still in a house all the time may be the greatest vagrant of all, but the saunterer, in the good sense, is no more vagrant than the meandering river, which is all the while sedulously seeking the shortest course to the sea." (Henry David Thoreau)
----------
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Wednesday, November 27, 2013
Isla Espiritu Santo Redux
(Note) There is a possibility that the post entitled "Easing Out of Panama" either posted twice or out of sequence.)
We are currently anchored off Espiritu Santo, our Panamanian home as far as I am concerned. We were alone when we got here three days ago, but now have two other boats here with us. It is just as beautiful here as ever, and I am glad to be back. Again, I understand why we have stayed here so long, and will likely have to fight the urge to stay even longer than we have planned.
Today we sort of re-upholstered the seat that serves as a cover for the life raft that lives in the cockpit. The old cover was disintegrating, so we put a new piece of vinyl over it. We will never be hired as upholsterers, but for a hand made job, it is not bad and will serve the purpose well. It goes nicely with our hand-sewn bimini top. We might as well keep the homespun theme going! Tomorrow we plan to relace some isinglass in the dodger. We really need to replace the whole dodger, but right now is not a good time. We can fix the really messed up part, and that will do until we have a professional re-do all our canvas.
Between here and Mogo Mogo, where we spent two days after leaving Panama City, we caught a nice sierra, and he has been feeding us for two days now. Tonight is the last of the ceviche. It was fantastic - for those interested, the recipe can be found in "The Joy of Cooking", and they spell it "seviche." Awesome recipe! DO not forget the green olives! We skip the part about letting the fish sit in the citrus by itself until ready to serve, and simply put all the ingredients together at once and let it sit for at least 3-4 hours in the fridge before eating. It is better the next day, if you can wait that long.
Since I am posting this via SSB radio, I am not sure what I have reported previously and I can't check. And since I have practically no short term memory any more, I may repeat myself. Bear with me. We had to motor all the way from Panama City to Mogo Mogo, but we got to do some actual sailing between Mogo Mogo and Espiritu Santo. It didn't last but a couple of hours, and our progress was slow, but it felt great to feel the wind pull the boat along and not hear any engine noise. The engine is not working properly in that it is not sounding right, but all the gauges indicate that the oil pressure is fine, there are no problems with over heating, so we plan to use it as little as we can until we get to Costa Rica and can have it checked out. We could go back to Panama City, but heaven knows it is time to move on!
We have had a little rain since we have left the city, but not enough to do more than make it crystal clear how dirty one's boat can get anchored off a large city - dust, dirt and God knows what in the air. One more decent rain and the deck should look nice again. When we get to Costa Rica and the marina, I plan to take advantage of the dockside water hose and give this boat a good washing and waxing.
Anyway, there is not a lot of real news to report here in the islands in Panama Bay - just observing the periodic bird and fish drama, watching the clouds gather and then dissipate, listening to thunder and lightning and being really happy it is at a safe distance, and being really grateful I get to be here and see all this before something happens to it, like development, or losing the beaches to rising sea levels, or whatever can happen. There is talk that Panama might slip back into dictatorship, but I try real hard not to have any involvement whatsoever in local politics in other countries, regardless of my personal sympathies - which are always based on people I have come to care about. I just hope everything will be okay. There is an election coming up in May, and I have been told things always get tense when this occurs. Of course none of this ever effects tourists, but when you spend a lot of time somewhere and get to know and care for people, it is hard not to want to involve oneself. I guess that is just human nature.
So that will be it for now. It is starting to rain, and I need to help Mike close up the overhead hatches. I still love it when it rains, I never take it for granted. Too many years in the Southern California desert, I guess.
"If you smile at me I will understand because that is something everybody everywhere does in the same language" (Crosby, Stills, Nash, and Young)
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We are currently anchored off Espiritu Santo, our Panamanian home as far as I am concerned. We were alone when we got here three days ago, but now have two other boats here with us. It is just as beautiful here as ever, and I am glad to be back. Again, I understand why we have stayed here so long, and will likely have to fight the urge to stay even longer than we have planned.
Today we sort of re-upholstered the seat that serves as a cover for the life raft that lives in the cockpit. The old cover was disintegrating, so we put a new piece of vinyl over it. We will never be hired as upholsterers, but for a hand made job, it is not bad and will serve the purpose well. It goes nicely with our hand-sewn bimini top. We might as well keep the homespun theme going! Tomorrow we plan to relace some isinglass in the dodger. We really need to replace the whole dodger, but right now is not a good time. We can fix the really messed up part, and that will do until we have a professional re-do all our canvas.
Between here and Mogo Mogo, where we spent two days after leaving Panama City, we caught a nice sierra, and he has been feeding us for two days now. Tonight is the last of the ceviche. It was fantastic - for those interested, the recipe can be found in "The Joy of Cooking", and they spell it "seviche." Awesome recipe! DO not forget the green olives! We skip the part about letting the fish sit in the citrus by itself until ready to serve, and simply put all the ingredients together at once and let it sit for at least 3-4 hours in the fridge before eating. It is better the next day, if you can wait that long.
Since I am posting this via SSB radio, I am not sure what I have reported previously and I can't check. And since I have practically no short term memory any more, I may repeat myself. Bear with me. We had to motor all the way from Panama City to Mogo Mogo, but we got to do some actual sailing between Mogo Mogo and Espiritu Santo. It didn't last but a couple of hours, and our progress was slow, but it felt great to feel the wind pull the boat along and not hear any engine noise. The engine is not working properly in that it is not sounding right, but all the gauges indicate that the oil pressure is fine, there are no problems with over heating, so we plan to use it as little as we can until we get to Costa Rica and can have it checked out. We could go back to Panama City, but heaven knows it is time to move on!
We have had a little rain since we have left the city, but not enough to do more than make it crystal clear how dirty one's boat can get anchored off a large city - dust, dirt and God knows what in the air. One more decent rain and the deck should look nice again. When we get to Costa Rica and the marina, I plan to take advantage of the dockside water hose and give this boat a good washing and waxing.
Anyway, there is not a lot of real news to report here in the islands in Panama Bay - just observing the periodic bird and fish drama, watching the clouds gather and then dissipate, listening to thunder and lightning and being really happy it is at a safe distance, and being really grateful I get to be here and see all this before something happens to it, like development, or losing the beaches to rising sea levels, or whatever can happen. There is talk that Panama might slip back into dictatorship, but I try real hard not to have any involvement whatsoever in local politics in other countries, regardless of my personal sympathies - which are always based on people I have come to care about. I just hope everything will be okay. There is an election coming up in May, and I have been told things always get tense when this occurs. Of course none of this ever effects tourists, but when you spend a lot of time somewhere and get to know and care for people, it is hard not to want to involve oneself. I guess that is just human nature.
So that will be it for now. It is starting to rain, and I need to help Mike close up the overhead hatches. I still love it when it rains, I never take it for granted. Too many years in the Southern California desert, I guess.
"If you smile at me I will understand because that is something everybody everywhere does in the same language" (Crosby, Stills, Nash, and Young)
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Chores, Fish, and Island Living
We finished the isinglass replacement yesterday, and my fingers are sore from poking myself with the big needles that are used with the awl. It looks great, and but for the light colored thread on the maroon canvas, no one would know without looking close that we did it by hand. I guess it isn't really isinglass, rather it is thick plastic, but too bad, that is what I call it and I am not sure why, except for that line in the song from Oklahoma! about the surrey with the fringe on top - "with isinglass curtains that can roll right down, in case there's a change in the weather." I have based a lot of opinions on things I have heard in songs, and often it has helped me. I can always remember the civil wars years because of the verses in "When Johnny Comes Marching Home". I know that President Garfield was shot by a man named Charlie Giteau, because of a Johnny Cash song. And of course we all know that Jesse James was shot by "the dirty little coward who shot Mr. Howard." But I digress.
It absolutely poured rain early this morning - I woke up because one of the hatches is right over my face, so I wake up right away of it starts raining. The deck is now sparkling clean. Today the plan is to (gulp) test the engine to see if the bad sound is coming from the large alternator. Mike says if that is the case, no big problem. We can run the engine no problem without that alternator, and we do have a spare (if it fits). We have a generator to charge the batteries if needs be, and he says it is not hard to remove an alternator. So we are really, really hoping Mike is right and the alternator has gone bad. We had trouble with it about a year and a half ago not charging properly, but Mike cleaned all the connections and it started working fine again. So maybe that is the problem. The engine itself seems to run just fine even with the noise - there is no overheating, the gauges look fine, the oil pressure is normal. Wish us luck!
I am pleased because I now have two other people helping me with the Panama Pacific SSB net. I have been doing it by myself for several months, and I had only one other person for several months before that. I don't remember if I already described what the net is, but here goes again anyway. They have these cruiser's nets on the SSB radio. They meet at different times, for different locations. People can go on the radio and report their positions, describe what weather they are experiencing, get info on weather from other people out there and people with access to weather and conditions information, see what other people out there are up to, keep in touch with others, and a host of other things. The Panama Pacific net handles boats from southernmost Mexico all the way to Ecuador and the Galapagos. I have talked to people underway from the Galapagos to the Marquesas. It is fun, but it got a little wearing doing every single day. But now I think I will only have two to three days a week, and I am pleased with that. I liked doing the net because I got to meet a lot of people and felt like I was doing a service to the cruising community. I still do.
So other than that, there is not a whole lot of news to report. As usual, it is beautiful here. We saw a lot of fish drama yesterday - several pretty big fish jumping out of the water like skipping stones, obviously being chased by something even bigger. The jumpers would have been a perfect size for us. Some panga guys came around day before yesterday selling lobsters, but they looked awfully small, so we chose to pass.
By they way, our fumigation efforts were not for naught - although we have not had a roach problem since the original gassing and follow up, we would continue to see them periodically. This last time we have not seen one now for several days. The ones we saw a few days after the bombing did not look very healthy, sort of staggering and very easy to kill. Then there were none. I am not kidding myself - they are still there somewhere, but in their last throes. We will win this war, and are now winning all the battles as well. It also seems to be getting a little less humid as the season changes from the rainy season to the dry season - I know this because I am cleaning up less mold.
No traditional Thanksgiving for us - I tried to find a turkey breast or leg or something, because our oven is not big enough for a turkey, and we could not deal well with a whole turkey anyway. But all the store had were large whole turkeys. But that is ok - I have not had a real one for three years now. Same with Christmas. I am hoping we will make it to Costa Rica by Christmas, but who knows. I guess it doesn't really matter. My carefully thought out plan for the next year is shot anyway - I am not sure why I continue to make plans that we never follow through on. We are even considering spending another year here in Central America - we do like it that much. I think Mike never wants to leave these islands.
There is a radio station in Panama City (that we can pick up out here) that is in English and is dedicated to the expat community here. It is fun to listen to, and right now they have started playing a lot of Christmas carols. For that matter, so do the regular Panamanian stations, and the other day I heard "Jingle Bell Rock" sung in Spanish. Wild. But I do like hearing "Silent Night" in German and "O Come All Ye Faithful" in Latin. They just seem to be supposed to be sung that way. Too bad I lost my cassette tape of the Neville Brothers doing Christmas songs - there was a solo by Aaron Neville of "Ave Maria" that was incredibly beautiful.
Well, Mike is up now and we need to start thinking about this engine thing - we need to get it over with and know one way or the other what is up with the engine. Right now we get to relax with our morning coffee, and plan the day. As usual. Oh Oh, Mike just disappeared into the engine compartment!
"A thing is right when it tends to preserve the integrity, stability, and beauty of the biotic community. It is wrong when it tends otherwise." (Aldo Leopold)
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It absolutely poured rain early this morning - I woke up because one of the hatches is right over my face, so I wake up right away of it starts raining. The deck is now sparkling clean. Today the plan is to (gulp) test the engine to see if the bad sound is coming from the large alternator. Mike says if that is the case, no big problem. We can run the engine no problem without that alternator, and we do have a spare (if it fits). We have a generator to charge the batteries if needs be, and he says it is not hard to remove an alternator. So we are really, really hoping Mike is right and the alternator has gone bad. We had trouble with it about a year and a half ago not charging properly, but Mike cleaned all the connections and it started working fine again. So maybe that is the problem. The engine itself seems to run just fine even with the noise - there is no overheating, the gauges look fine, the oil pressure is normal. Wish us luck!
I am pleased because I now have two other people helping me with the Panama Pacific SSB net. I have been doing it by myself for several months, and I had only one other person for several months before that. I don't remember if I already described what the net is, but here goes again anyway. They have these cruiser's nets on the SSB radio. They meet at different times, for different locations. People can go on the radio and report their positions, describe what weather they are experiencing, get info on weather from other people out there and people with access to weather and conditions information, see what other people out there are up to, keep in touch with others, and a host of other things. The Panama Pacific net handles boats from southernmost Mexico all the way to Ecuador and the Galapagos. I have talked to people underway from the Galapagos to the Marquesas. It is fun, but it got a little wearing doing every single day. But now I think I will only have two to three days a week, and I am pleased with that. I liked doing the net because I got to meet a lot of people and felt like I was doing a service to the cruising community. I still do.
So other than that, there is not a whole lot of news to report. As usual, it is beautiful here. We saw a lot of fish drama yesterday - several pretty big fish jumping out of the water like skipping stones, obviously being chased by something even bigger. The jumpers would have been a perfect size for us. Some panga guys came around day before yesterday selling lobsters, but they looked awfully small, so we chose to pass.
By they way, our fumigation efforts were not for naught - although we have not had a roach problem since the original gassing and follow up, we would continue to see them periodically. This last time we have not seen one now for several days. The ones we saw a few days after the bombing did not look very healthy, sort of staggering and very easy to kill. Then there were none. I am not kidding myself - they are still there somewhere, but in their last throes. We will win this war, and are now winning all the battles as well. It also seems to be getting a little less humid as the season changes from the rainy season to the dry season - I know this because I am cleaning up less mold.
No traditional Thanksgiving for us - I tried to find a turkey breast or leg or something, because our oven is not big enough for a turkey, and we could not deal well with a whole turkey anyway. But all the store had were large whole turkeys. But that is ok - I have not had a real one for three years now. Same with Christmas. I am hoping we will make it to Costa Rica by Christmas, but who knows. I guess it doesn't really matter. My carefully thought out plan for the next year is shot anyway - I am not sure why I continue to make plans that we never follow through on. We are even considering spending another year here in Central America - we do like it that much. I think Mike never wants to leave these islands.
There is a radio station in Panama City (that we can pick up out here) that is in English and is dedicated to the expat community here. It is fun to listen to, and right now they have started playing a lot of Christmas carols. For that matter, so do the regular Panamanian stations, and the other day I heard "Jingle Bell Rock" sung in Spanish. Wild. But I do like hearing "Silent Night" in German and "O Come All Ye Faithful" in Latin. They just seem to be supposed to be sung that way. Too bad I lost my cassette tape of the Neville Brothers doing Christmas songs - there was a solo by Aaron Neville of "Ave Maria" that was incredibly beautiful.
Well, Mike is up now and we need to start thinking about this engine thing - we need to get it over with and know one way or the other what is up with the engine. Right now we get to relax with our morning coffee, and plan the day. As usual. Oh Oh, Mike just disappeared into the engine compartment!
"A thing is right when it tends to preserve the integrity, stability, and beauty of the biotic community. It is wrong when it tends otherwise." (Aldo Leopold)
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Saturday, November 23, 2013
Easing out of Panama
We have been really busy the last few weeks - getting everything ready to head out. We (mike)fixed all the things that were broken, as well as a few things that weren't, but were heading for it. The boat is in great shape. We spent the last couple of days provisioning - we must have enough stuff on this boat to feed us for six months if we fished and played our cards right. We still need to get fresh vegetables, but plan to do that the day before we leave.
I am eager to get out of here. First of all, I do not have the temperament to be an illegal alien. It is nerve wracking for me. Any kind of a truly criminal lifestyle is something I could never tolerate. My nerves won't take it. Another reason is that it is simply time to move on. I am eager to see Costa Rica, as well as being eager to get out to sea again. I miss it. I was up really early this morning, early enough to see the aftermath of the early sunrise. It made me realize I miss my late night/early morning watches, when I pass the time by guessing exactly when I will see the first glimpse of the actual sun rising over the horizon. The colors are amazingly beautiful, with the water turning from pink to lilac and finally to blue.
it has also gotten even hotter and more humid and I am sick to death of cleaning mold off every surface. It isn't hard to do, but it is a pain to keep doing it over and over again. I was happy to discover that nothing was hurting the clothing in the hanging lockers and shelves - I had visions of everything we don't wear often being totally ruined by mold and/or mildew. Thank goodness that did not come to pass - although I suppose it would have been a good excuse to buy new clothes.
In fact, one of the things I do miss about not living a regular life on land is buying and wearing cute clothing and shoes. I once had over 45 pairs of shoes, with a large proportion of them being variations of the black pump theme. Now I wear crocs and flip flops, if any shoes at all. I have a pair of hiking boots, which I avoid at all costs because I now hate heavy things on my feet. I also have a pair of Keen water sandals, that are pretty heavy duty and are worn for things like hikes where you have to do through water. Which happens a lot here in the tropical jungles. I did keep one pair of black open-toes ankle strapped heels, because they go well with the one good dress I brought. I never want to wear anything nice, even when we leave the boat to go out. It is so damn hot and humid that anything nice is ruined from sweat the first time I wear it. I am waiting to go back to the states to wear some of the gorgeous blouses I bought in Maya Land.
So what else is new? Really, not a lot. We just live sort of day to day, getting things done and trying not to sweat to death. Every time I wipe the sweat from my face so I am not blinded by all the water flowing down, I remember how in junior high in Wisconsin, it was a terrible insult to walk up to someone and say "Sweat much"? Or to call someone a "sweat." Not a "sweathog" - that came later with the TV show, but just a "sweat." Now if someone asked me that I would tell them they had no idea what sweating really was until they spent some time down here with me. Sometimes I feel water dripping on my feet and I realize it is running off my face as I lean over cleaning something or putting something away. But the funny thing is, it doesn't bother me like it used to. Not really. I never thought this would happen, but it has. I think I could handle bikram yoga now.
So the plan is to leave sometime next week. We want to do one more load of laundry, and say good bye to all our friends here. We have to go to the produce market. And there will likely be a few things that crop up requiring a trip to some store or other. We are having some friends over to the boat tomorrow evening - they have the same kind of boat as Magda Jean is, a Valiant 40. Theirs is about ten years older than ours is, and there are some design differences, but it is the same boat all right. We Valiant owners are a special breed, all right.
Anyway, I had better get going. Time to do something around this boat. Guess what - I just heard thunder. That must mean the daily rain shower is on its way. Hopefully we can skip the lightning this time.
"Oh but I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now." (Bob Dylan)
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I am eager to get out of here. First of all, I do not have the temperament to be an illegal alien. It is nerve wracking for me. Any kind of a truly criminal lifestyle is something I could never tolerate. My nerves won't take it. Another reason is that it is simply time to move on. I am eager to see Costa Rica, as well as being eager to get out to sea again. I miss it. I was up really early this morning, early enough to see the aftermath of the early sunrise. It made me realize I miss my late night/early morning watches, when I pass the time by guessing exactly when I will see the first glimpse of the actual sun rising over the horizon. The colors are amazingly beautiful, with the water turning from pink to lilac and finally to blue.
it has also gotten even hotter and more humid and I am sick to death of cleaning mold off every surface. It isn't hard to do, but it is a pain to keep doing it over and over again. I was happy to discover that nothing was hurting the clothing in the hanging lockers and shelves - I had visions of everything we don't wear often being totally ruined by mold and/or mildew. Thank goodness that did not come to pass - although I suppose it would have been a good excuse to buy new clothes.
In fact, one of the things I do miss about not living a regular life on land is buying and wearing cute clothing and shoes. I once had over 45 pairs of shoes, with a large proportion of them being variations of the black pump theme. Now I wear crocs and flip flops, if any shoes at all. I have a pair of hiking boots, which I avoid at all costs because I now hate heavy things on my feet. I also have a pair of Keen water sandals, that are pretty heavy duty and are worn for things like hikes where you have to do through water. Which happens a lot here in the tropical jungles. I did keep one pair of black open-toes ankle strapped heels, because they go well with the one good dress I brought. I never want to wear anything nice, even when we leave the boat to go out. It is so damn hot and humid that anything nice is ruined from sweat the first time I wear it. I am waiting to go back to the states to wear some of the gorgeous blouses I bought in Maya Land.
So what else is new? Really, not a lot. We just live sort of day to day, getting things done and trying not to sweat to death. Every time I wipe the sweat from my face so I am not blinded by all the water flowing down, I remember how in junior high in Wisconsin, it was a terrible insult to walk up to someone and say "Sweat much"? Or to call someone a "sweat." Not a "sweathog" - that came later with the TV show, but just a "sweat." Now if someone asked me that I would tell them they had no idea what sweating really was until they spent some time down here with me. Sometimes I feel water dripping on my feet and I realize it is running off my face as I lean over cleaning something or putting something away. But the funny thing is, it doesn't bother me like it used to. Not really. I never thought this would happen, but it has. I think I could handle bikram yoga now.
So the plan is to leave sometime next week. We want to do one more load of laundry, and say good bye to all our friends here. We have to go to the produce market. And there will likely be a few things that crop up requiring a trip to some store or other. We are having some friends over to the boat tomorrow evening - they have the same kind of boat as Magda Jean is, a Valiant 40. Theirs is about ten years older than ours is, and there are some design differences, but it is the same boat all right. We Valiant owners are a special breed, all right.
Anyway, I had better get going. Time to do something around this boat. Guess what - I just heard thunder. That must mean the daily rain shower is on its way. Hopefully we can skip the lightning this time.
"Oh but I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now." (Bob Dylan)
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Thursday, November 21, 2013
The Watery Route to Costa Rica Has Begun - Hopefully!
Yes, that's right. We finally left Panama City yesterday and are now anchored at Islas Chapera and Mogo Mogo. We had a wonderful trip here - until we hit something. As best as we can tell, it was a tangle of plastic and tree branches and that sort of thing. We were able to back up the engine and get some of it off, but there is still something there and we need to dive under the boat today and see what is up. There was definitely a problem - the engine acted weird, and there was a leak in the area where the shaft to the propeller goes through the hull. Mike managed with an incredible amount of trouble to fix it as soon as we were safely anchored. It was almost impossible to get to - he was twisted up like a pretzel while I held the flashlight and dripped sweat all over everywhere. It also took a new tool we didn't even know we had, but Mike remembered seeing it and wondering what it was for. Anyway, I am hoping against hope there is nothing wrong with the engine. I DO NOT want to have to go back to Panama City for repairs - we have been there long enough and I want to move on. However, we are still close to PC and if things have gone seriously south with the engine, we might have to. I am hoping that at worst we can wait until we get to Costa Rica. There is a haul out facility where we plan to stay.
Other than possible engine problems (too depressing to dwell on now) everything is great. The islands are wonderful and I am glad to be back. Our plan is to spend a week or so here, and catch some fish to beef up our stores. We plan to smoke it and pickle it. I haven't fished for a while now and I miss it. Both Mike and I have decided to give up sport fishing, as we have caught enough big fancy fish and now concentrate only on catching what we want to eat. But I have to keep reminding myself when I get greedy for a really big fish. I just want the photo op, and that is certainly NOT a good reason to kill a fish that is so big you can't eat it all.
I really enjoyed Panama City, but it is time to move on. We will likely stop by again when we go to Ecuador. Of course the timeline I have been going on and on about is completely shot. Except for two family events in May and June in the US that I will be going to no matter what happens with this boat, and hopefully a visit from a dear friend in July, I am going to stop making anything but the vaguest of plans. We never do what we tell everyone we are going to. Not purposely, but things just come up and then everything gets thrown out of whack. I am not unhappy about it, it is just something that happens in the cruising life, for lack of a better term. I think it has taken these three years on the move to learn that lesson. I knew better than to make any really firm plans - for example, planning to be somewhere on a certain date. A lot of people get into trouble trying to adhere to a strict schedule. That is when people roll the dice and take chances with weather they really shouldn't take, and were they not on that strict schedule, it is likely they would choose to change their departure time. So be it.
As I write this, we are the only boat here in the anchorage. There is a military station nearby, but all we can see of it is an antenna, never any people. Their boats seem to go a different direction instead of right through the anchorage. So I can skinny dip if I want to. (A side note: there are some definite advantages to skinny dipping over wearing a bathing suit. First, it feels better. Second, there are no wet bathing suits to dry. Both are good reasons, especially the first. I have never been a person who feels comfortable running around naked, but when it is this private and this nice, and it feels so good, why not indulge myself? That was probably TMI, but again, so be it. But it is gorgeous here. The water is clear, the islands are green, the sand is a lovely golden, and the fish are jumping all around the boat. I had my coffee in the cockpit as the sun was coming up. It can't get much better!
"True or false, that which is said of men often occupies as important place in their lives, and above all in their destinies, as that which they do." Victor Hugo
Other than possible engine problems (too depressing to dwell on now) everything is great. The islands are wonderful and I am glad to be back. Our plan is to spend a week or so here, and catch some fish to beef up our stores. We plan to smoke it and pickle it. I haven't fished for a while now and I miss it. Both Mike and I have decided to give up sport fishing, as we have caught enough big fancy fish and now concentrate only on catching what we want to eat. But I have to keep reminding myself when I get greedy for a really big fish. I just want the photo op, and that is certainly NOT a good reason to kill a fish that is so big you can't eat it all.
I really enjoyed Panama City, but it is time to move on. We will likely stop by again when we go to Ecuador. Of course the timeline I have been going on and on about is completely shot. Except for two family events in May and June in the US that I will be going to no matter what happens with this boat, and hopefully a visit from a dear friend in July, I am going to stop making anything but the vaguest of plans. We never do what we tell everyone we are going to. Not purposely, but things just come up and then everything gets thrown out of whack. I am not unhappy about it, it is just something that happens in the cruising life, for lack of a better term. I think it has taken these three years on the move to learn that lesson. I knew better than to make any really firm plans - for example, planning to be somewhere on a certain date. A lot of people get into trouble trying to adhere to a strict schedule. That is when people roll the dice and take chances with weather they really shouldn't take, and were they not on that strict schedule, it is likely they would choose to change their departure time. So be it.
As I write this, we are the only boat here in the anchorage. There is a military station nearby, but all we can see of it is an antenna, never any people. Their boats seem to go a different direction instead of right through the anchorage. So I can skinny dip if I want to. (A side note: there are some definite advantages to skinny dipping over wearing a bathing suit. First, it feels better. Second, there are no wet bathing suits to dry. Both are good reasons, especially the first. I have never been a person who feels comfortable running around naked, but when it is this private and this nice, and it feels so good, why not indulge myself? That was probably TMI, but again, so be it. But it is gorgeous here. The water is clear, the islands are green, the sand is a lovely golden, and the fish are jumping all around the boat. I had my coffee in the cockpit as the sun was coming up. It can't get much better!
"True or false, that which is said of men often occupies as important place in their lives, and above all in their destinies, as that which they do." Victor Hugo
Monday, November 4, 2013
Time for a Change
Things here are generally fine. We have been doing a lot of the never-ceasing boat chores that keep popping up - as I noted before, the water maker is fixed. We have installed a new battery bank, and we are praying that Mike has the fridge fixed. That is a tricky job, and it can get unbearable exp0ensive and time consuming if you have to start ordering parts and whatnot from the US. Tomorrow we are bombing the boat once again for bugs, and staying overnight in a hotel. We really have pretty much licked the roaches, but we do see one every now and then, and even one roach is too many roaches as far as I am concerned. I figure we just keep putting out the poison, and every now and then bombing the place, and we will have a complete victory. I NEVER EVER want to deal with a problem like we had before, never, never, ever again.
While we are in the hotel, we will get our last big load of laundry done before we leave Panama City, especially the sheets and towels. We will use the hotel internet to download some more movies to watch. When we return to the boat Thursday morning, we will be ready to provision the boat and then head out. Much as I like it here, it is time for a change. And as I previously stated, we have immigration issues.
I am actually pretty ashamed of this situation, and although I don't think we'd get in too much trouble over it - likely a fine of some sort - I am not real comfortable and want to get the hell out of Dodge. Here is what happened: We checked out of Panama on June 27, planning to head to Ecuador. We stopped in the Las Perlas Islands, where we became entranced and just didn't leave. Weeks turned unto months, and finally we ran out of food and stuff and had to return to Panama City to get more provisions. OK, that sounds good. Again we head out, only to again get caught up in the Perlas. Then - we started to have problems with the water maker and the fridge. The shipping of the water maker was a huge hassle, with it taking a month and a half to get here. So here we are, in November, 5 months after formally leaving the country. And to top it off, when we originally left, we planned to go to Ecuador. So our zarpe (an exit document) says we are heading to Ecuador as of five months ago! What a mess! We kept putting off checking back into the country because we figured it would only be another week or so, and we didn't want to pay all the check in money for such a short time. Oh well - we will see what happens. It makes me nervous, I have no temperament for any kind of real crime. So I am an illegal alien. For real. I will never do anything like this again.
Otherwise, there is not a lot of news, really. Every time I sit down to write a post, I start playing on the internet, or playing solitaire. Lazy, so lazy. But things are good, we are happy and well, and hopefully we will be heading out soon - to Costa Rica and the insane luxury of a well-appointed marina.
"Parenting is the greatest of the hum-a-few-bars-and-I'll-fake-it skills." (Stephen King)
While we are in the hotel, we will get our last big load of laundry done before we leave Panama City, especially the sheets and towels. We will use the hotel internet to download some more movies to watch. When we return to the boat Thursday morning, we will be ready to provision the boat and then head out. Much as I like it here, it is time for a change. And as I previously stated, we have immigration issues.
I am actually pretty ashamed of this situation, and although I don't think we'd get in too much trouble over it - likely a fine of some sort - I am not real comfortable and want to get the hell out of Dodge. Here is what happened: We checked out of Panama on June 27, planning to head to Ecuador. We stopped in the Las Perlas Islands, where we became entranced and just didn't leave. Weeks turned unto months, and finally we ran out of food and stuff and had to return to Panama City to get more provisions. OK, that sounds good. Again we head out, only to again get caught up in the Perlas. Then - we started to have problems with the water maker and the fridge. The shipping of the water maker was a huge hassle, with it taking a month and a half to get here. So here we are, in November, 5 months after formally leaving the country. And to top it off, when we originally left, we planned to go to Ecuador. So our zarpe (an exit document) says we are heading to Ecuador as of five months ago! What a mess! We kept putting off checking back into the country because we figured it would only be another week or so, and we didn't want to pay all the check in money for such a short time. Oh well - we will see what happens. It makes me nervous, I have no temperament for any kind of real crime. So I am an illegal alien. For real. I will never do anything like this again.
Otherwise, there is not a lot of news, really. Every time I sit down to write a post, I start playing on the internet, or playing solitaire. Lazy, so lazy. But things are good, we are happy and well, and hopefully we will be heading out soon - to Costa Rica and the insane luxury of a well-appointed marina.
"Parenting is the greatest of the hum-a-few-bars-and-I'll-fake-it skills." (Stephen King)
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